Save Your Money: Build a PC

April 8th, 2009 at 9:57 pm by Matt Schuler under Entertainment

When you’re buying a computer there are a couple of things to consider.  Do you want a Mac or a PC, how much do you want to spend, do you want to build it yourself?

I wanted to build my new computer myself, because it allows me to spend more money on parts I care about, while saving money on parts I don’t.  Also, building a computer saves substantially when putting premium components into your case.  I couldn’t compete with Dell or HP when it comes to building the $200 internet browsing computer you can get at Best Buy.  But I can compete when it comes to putting some serious gaming performance into a relatively cost-effective computer.

Also, because I’m building my own computer that pretty much makes me a PC, because I can’t put OSX on a custom built system.

Part One: Let’s Go Shopping

Shopping is a little bit more fun for the custom PC builder.  It’s actually the only kind of shopping I like to do.  I went to Newegg with the express purpose of buying the components for a custom PC build. I had debated building now versus waiting until StarCraft 2 came out, but then I realized SC2 isn’t going to push the limits of any system I was going to build.

My 2 main objectives were price and performance.  I wanted to come in at a price point that was in the same ballpark as my last computer build (from almost 3 years ago, wow!) while getting a large amount of performance out of the setup.  That price was $1183.33 shipped.

The performance aspect comes pretty easy because of the processor I chose (Intel’s Core i7) because of the overclockability of it.

The parts list follows.

System:

I also got some pretty decent combo discounts by purchasing parts together, I’ll get to that in a second.  (All of the components link to Newegg, because that’s where I bought them.)

I’m only buying the main PC because I already own a good mouse, keyboard, speakers and pair of LCDs.  When building your system, often those are the parts that you take from one to the next.  I’ll also install the copy of Windows Vista that I own, and install my old copy of Windows XP on my previous box.

Now to the why’s…

————————————————————————-– Case: Antec Twelve Hundred

Antec Twelve Hundred (click to enlarge)

Antec Twelve Hundred (click to enlarge)

There are a couple of reasons I chose to go with the Antec Twelve Hundred.  I’ve read a few columns from different review sites.  High marks seemed to be given to cases from Antec, CoolerMaster and Thermaltake.

My decision came to rest between three different full tower cases: the Twelve Hundred, the Coolermaster HAF and the Thermaltake Spedo. The base price on each after instant discounts were in the same ballpark, but only the Twelve Hundred had free shipping.  Free shipping on a case, particularly a full tower case, can add $20 to the price.   Each case had a respective bundle deal, pairing it with a decent number of components.  The best bundle I found paired the Twelve Hundred with an Antec power supply, the EarthWatts 650.

Ultimately, because the reviews main detriments were price (which has come down) and the LED lights (which I actually like, but can be turned off) I chose to go with the Antec Twelve Hundred.  I look forward to building out my new computer inside of it.

————————————————————————-Power Supply: Antec EarthWatts 650W

The Antec EarthWatts 650W Power Supply (click to enlarge)

The Antec EarthWatts 650W Power Supply (click to enlarge)

How much you want to cram inside your computer should ultimately dictate the size of your power supply.  In my case, I do plan on doing some overclocking and eventually I may choose to add a second video card, so I wanted to have a high quality and decent sized power supply.

(Of note, this is actually the biggest power supply I’ve ever put in a custom build system.)

Enter: the Antec EarthWatts 650W.  It had gotten some favorable reviews and was used in a pair of gaming rig guides I had seen online.

Ultimately it was price, performance, reviews and the fact that it was bundled with a nice discount that made me go with it.

I’m confident that it’ll have enough juice to power my rig, and I won’t have to worry about the quality because a component from Antec has yet to steer me wrong.

————————————————————————-Motherboard: Asus P6T Deluxe V2

The Asus P6T Deluxe V2 (Click To Enlarge)

The Asus P6T Deluxe V2 (Click To Enlarge)

The motherboard is the hardest component to change when you’re building a custom PC, so it’s important that you pick the right one.

I think the P6T Deluxe V2 is the right board for my build.  It has plenty of room for expansion and a great number of features that will make it easier to do what I want to do (which is to say overclock the lights out of the Core i7).

The motherboard will hold upto 24GB of ram.  Even though I only plan to put 6GB on there, it’s nice to know I could add more (and I might with the way prices are trending downward).

In Anandtech’s midrange Intel system buyer’s guide, they actually recommended going with a cheaper part, the Gigabyte GA-EX58-UD3R.  While it was about $80 cheaper after rebate, I found that there were a couple of options on the Asus board that were worth the extra cash, and there was a nice combo deal again that narrowed the pricegap with the Gigabyte board.

The ExtremeTech guys wrote an informative article on overclocking the Core i7 and used the original Deluxe board from Asus.  Because I don’t overclock every day, the ‘auto’ feature of the Asus AI Tweaker appealed to me.

————————————————————————-Processor: Intel Core i7 920

The Intel Core i7 920 (click to enlarge)

The Intel Core i7 920 (click to enlarge)

For me there was only one real option when looking at processors.  I knew I wanted to buy a chip from Intel’s Nehalem line, because everywhere I’ve read says that this is one of the most friendly overclocking processors to come along in years.  I also knew that I could afford to buy only the 920 variant.

The Core i7 has three different offerings, the 920 which I selected, the 940 (listed at $570) and the Extreme Edition 965 (listed at $1000).

For me, the choice was clear when I saw benchmarks saying the 920 could overclock to speeds above the EE 965’s base clock by a very large margin.  (For reference, the 920 ships with a 2.66Ghz clock and the 965 with a 3.2Ghz clock).  You could overclock the EE 965 and get even better performance, but I didn’t have that kind of scratch.

One of things I’m most looking forward to in this build is seeing just how much juice I get get out of the Core i7 920 that I selected.

————————————————————————-CPU Cooler: Vigor Monsoon III LT

Vigor Monsoon (click to enlarge)

Vigor Monsoon III LT (click to enlarge)

I’m not a professional system builder.  So I turn to the professionals when they talk about the heat put out by the Intel Core i7 line.  In Anandtech’s system building guide they talked about how the stock cooler included with the Core i7 920 processor is barely adequate for running at stock speeds.  Seeing as I wanted to overclock, a new CPU Cooler had to be included in the mix.  The Anandtech guide listed the Vigor Monsoon III LT as a cooler to get the job done.

Fortunate for me, the cooler was also part of a combo deal at Newegg with the processor I was already buying, so I got to save a bit more.

I chose not to go with a more elaborate water cooling system because I wasn’t confident in my own abilities to set it up right.

————————————————————————-Graphics Card: Gigabyte HD4870 1 GB

The Gigabyte HD4870 1GB (click to enlarge)

The Gigabyte HD4870 1GB (click to enlarge)

This selection, more than any other, gave me pause before clicking the ‘buy’ button when staring at my shopping cart.  Both AMD and Nvidia have just released some new parts in the $250 dollar range, the exact price point I was looking at going for.  But, by releasing those parts the two companies also pushed down the price on the previous generation of cards and in my case quite substantially.

The Gigabyte HD4870 that I chose to go with was 40% cheaper than the HD4890 part I was looking at.  The performance loss was only about 10% in most reviews I’ve seen comparing the two cards.  It just wasn’t cost effective to spend that much extra on the newer card and not get the same amount of performance out of it.

Also, I can still choose to buy two cards (which I might do when the prices come down even further) and at that point I’ll better the performance that I would have gotten out of the 4890 series because of the CrossFire Support.  (CrossFire basically links the two cards to increase performance output).

————————————————————————-Memory: OCZ Platinum 6GB (3×2GB) DDR3 1600

OCZ 6GB Platinum DDR3 1600 (click to enlarge)

OCZ 6GB Platinum DDR3 1600 (click to enlarge)

Memory was a somewhat easier choice for the system.  Prices are down dramatically compared to when I was building a system three years ago.  In addition, everywhere I looked seemed to recommend some sort of OCZ memory.  In the past, I’ve been partial to Corsair and Crucial but couldn’t ignore the recommendations.

The main decision between 3GB and 6GB was over quickly, because I could get 6GB for less thatn $100 bucks shipped.  It was just too cheap not to grab the extra amount, plus it’d feel like I was stepping backwards if I went with 3GB because I have 4GB (albeit slower memory) in my Home Theater PC.

The decision between OCZ’s Platinum and Gold came down to recommendations in system building guides and the similar prices between the two.

————————————————————————-Hard Drive: Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB

————————————————————————-Disc Drive: Pioneer Black 20x DVD Burner

Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB (click to enlarge)

WD Caviar Black 1TB (click to enlarge)

The final two components I bought came down to a pair of factors.  How ‘cutting edge’ did I want to go?  How important is speed?  Can I save money?

I could have spent a good deal more by choosing a VelociRaptor hard drive that would have outperformed the Caviar Black.  At the same time, I could have gone with a much smaller hard drive to save even more.

I ultimately chose to go with the drive I did because I have a tendency to fill drives up and the performance reviews I’ve seen on the Caviar Black were pretty favorable.

As to the disc drive, no part of me wanted a Blu-Ray player in my desktop PC.  If I’m going to put one anywhere, I’ll toss the $100 reader into my HTPC, but I’m not interested in having one on my desktop.  If prices continue to creep down, it might be an option.

When looking at the gaming industry though, it was painfully slow to make the switch from CD to DVD for games, I can only imagine that the transition to the slower adopted Blu-Ray will take even longer. (In the PC realm at least)  Additionally, game distribution in an increasing number of cases doesn’t involve discs at all.

As for other components, as stated above, I already have a pair of monitors I like.  I own the Sidewinder X6 Keyboard and Razer Lachesis Mouse that I’ve reviewed.  I also have a set of Klipsch speakers that are absolutely ancient (having come through now 4 builds with me) but that I still like when I don’t have a headset on.

More To Come:

Save Your Money: Build A PC continues!  I’m not going to just list the parts and leave it at that, no!  Follow my Twitter updates to be updated the second the order actually ships from Newegg.  And make sure to come back for part two: The Build!  If you’re a novice to the aspect of building a PC, it could be a good read.  I’ll be sure to include pictures from the build.

As always you can leave your comments in the section provided, or shoot me an email at matt(dot)schuler(at)woodtv(dot)com.

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12 Responses to “Save Your Money: Build a PC”

  1. timmy says:

    I hope you have a 64 bit version of Windows; otherwise the extra 3GB of memory you purchased will be useless because 32 bit windows can’t utilize more than ~4GB! 2^32 = ~4GB of addressable memory locations.

  2. LightningWatcher says:

    Don’t forget to get your OEM copy of Windows when you order your parts. Otherwise the full version could cost as much as four times as much.

    Pity you couldn’t had waited. In the next few weeks AMD/ATi is releasing a Phenom II 955 which will cost about the same as the Core i7 920. The Phenom chip is gonna rate at about 3.4ghz, and likely have some good overhead for overclocking. Seeing that it seems you like the Radeon cards, the 4890 is due to be released soon. Retail on that is supposed to be close to the 4870 1gb cards. Also worth mentioning, an AM3 motherboard to support the Phenom II will cost $100 – $200 less than the Core i7 board, also they don’t need three sticks of RAM, though the triple channel is a slight advantage.

  3. LightningWatcher says:

    My bad, the Phenom II 955 is only going to be 3.2ghz. Some people are estimating its release price to be around $250 give or take $15.

    http://www.tomshardware.com/news/amd-phenom-cpu,7312.html

  4. Matt Schuler says:

    Timmy,
    I do have a 64 bit copy of Vista, that was very important to have.

    Lightning,
    Didn’t have to order the oem version, because I already had one, but it’s a good point for others when they’re shopping.

    The Phenom never really appealed to me, I’ve not been partial either way to AMD or Intel in the past, rather to just the better performing part. Overclockability from what I’ve seen has been pretty high, and I’m expecting that with the Core i7.

    As to the 4890, I actually had one in my cart. They’re available now. I ultimately changed it though, because it was $230 after rebate, while the 4870 1GB was $170 after rebate. The performance gap in reviews just wasn’t large enough to justify spending the extra $60 to me. Plus, when the 4870 drops even more, I might just buy another one and Cross Fire them.

    Thanks for the comments guys.

    -Matt

  5. LightningWatcher says:

    If its overclockability you wanted, my Phenom II 940 easily clocks to 3.4ghz with the heat sink and fan provided by AMD. The only draw back to mine was its the socket AM2+, so it didn’t have the DDR3 controller. But I’m still running my memory at 1067mhz. The jumperless clock settings in the ASUS motherboards can be kinda annoying, but still working, and really can’t be the reliability of them boards. Last note worth bringing up about the Phenom II’s, is can an Intel Core i7 do this?

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wB0JodKgZ0A

  6. LightningWatcher says:

    *Really can’t beat the reliability of those ASUS motherboards. Seroquel has me typing faster than I can think lately…

  7. Matt Schuler says:

    The thing that attracted me to the Asus mobo is the ease of overclocking with it that I’ve read about.

    You probably wouldn’t want to clock the Core i7 too high without a new cooler, but I’ve seen articles where they’ve pushed it to 3.8 and even 4.0 on just air cooling.

    Another reason I went with the Antec Twelve Hundred is that it is so big and spacious and should have some good airflow. We’ll see how well I can overclock the 920 and still retain stability though.

    -Matt

  8. Anonymous says:

    This is a good recommendation, for someone that already knows what they want and how to build it. I agree with most of the parts.
    But if I wanna do recommendations for a newbie in computer building, I will recommend the Tiger Direct bundles. Normally they are really cheap and come with regular to very good parts. when you are going for your next box, then you could go overboard.

  9. Matt Schuler says:

    I have used Tiger Direct before, they actually had a pretty similar bundle to what I ordered, with changes to the MoBo some extra RAM and other stuff.

    It’s always good to check out deals sites like techbargains.com, fatwallet.com and others, to make sure you’re not missing anything.

    -Matt

  10. Wheeler says:

    Save Your Money: Build a PC?
    How about: Save Your Money: Recondition a PC instead?
    First find a working used computer with roughly a 1ghz or greater processor. I bought one on E-Bay for $1 plus $39 shipping and handling.
    Upgrade if necessary to at least 1/2 gb memory: $20 used.
    Add a new 160 gb IDE hard drive: $50
    Add a used ethernet card if necessary: $10
    Generally a used computer with a 1 ghz or greater processor comes with a CD-R drive so no cost there.
    Download a copy of PCLinuxOS 2009 for free and install that as your operating system.
    So for less than a $150 dollars a computer that will do everything the majority of people do with computers (except play some Windows based games).
    Add a used 15 or 17 inch CRT monitor for $40, a new keyboard for $15, a new optical mouse for $15 and you have a complete system for under $250.
    $1200 dollars for a PC? That is not saving your money.

  11. Kristopher says:

    Have fun playing bleeding edge games on that, Wheeler… especially when you have to use Wine to get them to work.

  12. Matt Schuler says:

    Wheeler,
    Not a bad idea, but definitely not something I was in the market for. The Build a PC series is just based on what I’m doing right now to get ready for my most anticipated game. (StarCraft 2)

    And Kristopher is right, it could be tough to get SC2 to play on that. :)

    -Matt

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